It is late at night at La Docena’s flagship restaurant in Mexico City’s trendy Roma neighborhood, and the place is busting with energy. Its bar is lined with beds of ice, showcasing Pacific oysters and chilled seafood, while at the tables, massive split, formidable fish are served tableside as what some call the world’s best fish taco dish. In short: It's a fiesta.
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La Docena stands out in Mexico City’s culinary landscape as a local institution that pioneered the use of upscale raw ingredients. The generous dishes are inspired by Buenos Aires, New Orleans, and of course – the western shores of Mexico.
"We started as an oyster bar and grill," says chef-owner Tomás Bermúdez. "My partner, Claudio, came back from New Orleans and said, 'Tomás, this is what we need to do. There isn't a single place specializing in oysters, not in Guadalajara, despite its proximity to the coast, and certainly not in the capital.'" He launched La Docena, "The Dozen" in english, named for the classic oyster serving, in Guadalajara, before expanding to Mexico City.
Elevating Local Classics to new heights
Over the years, La Docena has evolved to offer an abundance of fish and seafood crudos, premium meats from Bermúdez's home state of Durango, and Pescado Zarandeado, a pilgrimage dish, featuring a massive sea bass seared over coals and served split open at the center of the table. Guests then pinch the tender meat directly into tortillas to create their own tacos. A proud Mexican answer to the Chinese Peking Duck.
הצגת פוסט זה באינסטגרם
La Docena’s iconic Pescado Zarandeado captures the evolution of Mexican cuisine: a shift from traditional, humble roots to a vibrant fine-dining scene that treats heritage recipes and local premium ingredients with profound respect.
"It’s a classic dish from the Pacific coast, stretching from Jalisco and Nayarit up to Sonora," Bermúdez explains. "I grew up eating it on weekend trips from Durango to the beaches of Mazatlán. Unfortunately, the current version will leave the menu in the summer of 2026. The specific sea bass we use is becoming increasingly difficult to source, but we are already thinking on new iterations to it.
The recipe itself is simple; the sauce was originally thrown together from whatever we had in the pantry the first time we made it," he adds. "The focus is on creating an upscale version of a centuries-old technique, the butterfly-style coal grilling, combined with exceptional fish. That, in essence, is the story of La Docena. Keeping things simple – and the same time also quite unique and as well-executed as possible"
From New Orleans to Mexico
Bermúdez was born in Mexico City and raised in Durango. Its relative proximity to the ocean exposed him to an abundance of fresh seafood from a young age. He was also deeply influenced by his mother’s vegetarian cooking, which is reflected in the many vegetable-forward dishes found on his menus today. At 17, he left home to work in Buenos Aires restaurants, working his way up from dishwasher to the cooking line.
After a stint in Europe, which included time at the legendary Le Chateaubriand in Paris under Chef Iñaki Aizpitarte, he returned to Mexico in 2008, to lead La Porteña, an Argentine restaurant in Guadalajara. It was there that he met his future partners.
In 2012, they opened the first La Docena in Guadalajara, followed by their first Mexico City location in 2015. The concept was inspired by New Orleans oyster bars, infused with the soul of Buenos Aires grill houses. Whether dealing with meat or seafood, Bermúdez's philosophy focuses on simplicity, ingredient quality, and precise techniques designed to highlight natural flavors.
"Over the years, we’ve shifted our focus toward sourcing," Bermúdez says. "Our lamb, pork, and over 75% of our vegetables come from our own rancha near Guadalajara, alongside Durango Wagyu beef. We don't like to use the label farm to table, but in practice, that’s exactly what we are. Everything, including the oysters, arrives shortly after harvest. In fact, our oysters are pulled from the water and delivered here faster than it sometimes takes for oysters to get from Normandy to Paris." In addition to the farm, the restaurant boasts a small winery producing two excellent rosés from Baja California.
La Docena (Photo: PR)
Preserving History, Shaping the Future
La Docena has earned consistent international acclaim, appearing repeatedly on the 50 Best lists and playing a key role in the ongoing renaissance of Mexican cuisine. "for year, Mexican food was globally synonymous with Tex-Mex: burritos, tacos and fahitas", Bermudez notes. "And while it’s true we eat everything with tortillas, we are now rediscovering the true depth of our heritage, much like the shift Thai cuisine underwent. The variety of recipes and ingredients is infinite, from seafood sourced from two different oceans to the riches of our jungles."
Bermudez is part of a celebrated generation of chefs, including Jorge Vallejo (Quintonil), Lalo García (Máximo), Edgar Núñez (Sud 777), Enrique Olvera (Pujol), and Santiago Lastra (KOL in London), who reshaped the country's culinary image.
Many of these peers as well as national culinary icons joined La Docena’s tenth-anniversary celebrations in Mexico City. The event featured collaborative dishes from local stars and international icons alike, such as Mitsuharu "Micha" Tsumura (Maido) and Álvaro Clavijo (El Chato), chef of the best restauranrs in the world and in Latin America, respectively. "Mexico is experiencing a revolution in fine dining and bistronomy led by so many talented people. We wanted to honor them and our friends through this celebration," says Bermúdez.
Looking ahead, Bermúdez's group is focused on expansion. They recently opened Taquería La Estrella in Mexico City and took over the management of La Bodeguita del Medio, a legendary 30-year-old Cuban institution from Havana. "We want to preserve its history, the Latin vibe and the salsa, while refreshing the design and launching a new cocktail program Tlecān's Eli Martinez", says the chef.
Additionally, a tiny wine bar is set to open inside the Roma branch of La Docena. It will feature a hyper-seasonal menu of just 15 dishes, with only 15 servings of each available, changing entirely every week.
"I want it to be as fun as possible; I plan to be there myself constantly over the next two years." When asked if his famous fish taco might find a new home there once it retires from the main menu next year, Bermudez smiles. "Only time will tell. Anything can happen!".
